Levi Strauss: A History of American Style Feb 13, 2020–Jan 31, 2021

 

Levi Strauss: A History of American Style is an original (now virtual) exhibition presented by the Contemporary Jewish Museum in San Francisco. The exhibition is a showcase of the life of Levi Strauss, a Bavarian Jew, and his invention of the iconic and staple blue jean as an American concept and covers Strauss’ experiences as an immigrant and entrepreneur in America. With hundreds of items from the Levi Strauss & Company Archives the exhibition by the CJM is the “largest public display of the company’s archival material ever assembled.”

The beginning of the blue jean began after the Gold Rush in 1873 when Strauss, with a United States patent process of reinforcing men’s work denim, founded the company. Described as democratic, finely crafted, symbolic; the original Levi’s were a work pant billed as “waist overalls” designed for and marketed to a consumer base of gold miners, farmers, forty-niners, and tradesmen.

Levi Strauss: A History of American Style (installation view), at The Contemporary Jewish
Museum, on view Feb 13–Aug 9, 2020; photo by Impart Photography via virtual exhibition.

The exhibition helps to highlight the role and influence of the Levi Strauss Company on both San Francisco and the business of work garments related to the American West. Included in the exhibition of original artifacts is advertising and displays that played on the mythology of the West and lifestyle of the region. Such images are reminiscent of cultural phenomena and icons like the Lone Ranger, John Wayne, and Elvis. During the decade of 1930-1940 the cowboy became the company symbol. It was during this time that the Lone Ranger and John Wayne became popular as Western heroes. By the mid-twentieth century the Levi’s brand had become a staple in youth culture and fashion, with Marlon Brando being an early influencer of the blue jean style from 1950 onward.

The Levi’s brand remains synonymous with Classic American style. Over three centuries the brand has remained like a tide, ebbing and flowing with current fashion trends, while remaining a staple over the course of three centuries. One might ask, as I did, how Levi Strauss and Georgia O’Keeffe qualify as contemporary art. But in recent decades cultural icons like YSL, Lauryn Hill, and Jean Paul Gaultier have collaborated with the brand to produce some contemporary examples of style and brand recognition, continuing to move it forward. 

Image: @Jewseum

The exhibition, real and virtual, is rather informative. I did not know that Lauryn Hill was wearing Levi’s, though I could have guessed. And there is a great job done by the curators on providing lots of narrative text in Strauss, Western mythology, etc. Unfortunately, due to COVID-19 the exhibition went virtual and, in such form, really does not come close to the actual studying of artifacts and browsing time that you would get in a museum. The real exhibition opened in February 2020, just before the pandemic closures, and has opened and closed with health department guidelines throughout the pandemic of 2020. It is good to see some examples in a rather concise layout, but the virtual does not give you anything close to the full experience. But that is also how times have become, not in relation to just museums, but the quality of everything! 

Jacket collaboration between YSL and Levi's ca. 1990s. Image: @Jewseum

I will say that I was actually impressed with the advertisement imagery from decades ago. I have only gotten a glimpse of such images on display at specialty stores when they were featured. The cowboy imagery and the vintage graphics still hold some allure, in my opinion. And the CJM could maybe have done more to promote the exhibition as it relates to a universal appeal, outside of being Jewish. I kinda held the idea that the CJM is a museum of religious artifacts. But in regard to virtual, there have not been any museums who are really into virtual exhibitions. Imagine a virtual restaurant. An equivalent would be a coffee table book, which is a whole ‘nother industry. 

A museum goer views artifacts on display during the Levi Strauss exhibition. Image: @Jewseum

Custom Levi's outfit worn by Lauryn Hill during her Miseducation tour, ca. 1990s.  Part of the Levi Strauss exhibition.     Image: @Jewseum

A museum goers looks at an item belonging to Georgia O'Keeffe on display at the Levi Strauss Exhibition. Image: @Jewseum

 😷Installation view. Image: @Jewseum. Exhibition link: here